Dermalogica Clean Start Brighten Up SPF15- Review


I tend to steer clear of products for oily/mixed skin types on a regular basis, especially things with names like "clean" "clear" "mattifying" etc, it all spells out as d-r-y-i-n-g to me. As you may have gathered by now,  I'm all about the moisture, all about the oil, and that "glow" or rather plane out "shine" that I know so many would love to be without.

The Dermalogica Clean Start Brighten Up SPF 15 60ml/2oz is one of very few exceptions to my grease- is- good tendencies, and even though the product description says it can be used on dry skin types as well (which is true, it can) I still feel that its on the lighter side of moisture for my skin, but will do wonders for those of you with normal-mixed- and oily skin types.

The thing about this moisturizer is that it is designed to bring about a healthy glow without inducing any shine, and so works great on its own as a daily pick-me up, or as a moisturizing- primer underneath makeup.

It has a neutral shade that would melt into most skin tones I would assume (it looks natural even on my dark olive tone).

The end result is somewhat glistening, but absorbs fast to leave very little shine behind although there is a distinct glow there.

I've used this on and off on my London stays, and works best on my skin as a primer over serum/ moisturizer.

Ingredient list: Octinoxate (7.5%), Octisalate (3.0%), Oxybenzone (2.0%), Water (Aqua), Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Butylene Glycol, Methyl Gluceth-20, Dimethicone, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Stearic Acid, Cetearyl Alcohol, Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract, Salix Alba (Willow) Bark Extract, Betula Alba Bark Extract, Arctium Lappa Root Extract, Allantoin, Panthenol, Cetyl Alcohol, Xanthan Gum, Polysorbate 60, Magnesium Aluminum Silicate, Disodium ED

The heroes of this product are the anti-inflammatory extracts of Lavender, Licorice root, willow bark, birch bark, and burdock root, in addition to allantoin a component of  comfrey root.

Lavender: Mostly used for its antibacterial properties. Acne sufferers benefit by regimes containing products with lavender extract, as it might help in regulation of the P.Acnes bacteria (Zu et al 2010). It has also been shown to inhibit the release of the inflammatory mediators, TNF and histamine (Kim & Cho 1999), and by such works as an anti-inflammatory agent. It may also increase the rate of wound healing (Hartman & Coetzee 2002, Kerr 2002) and has been used to aid people recovering from burns. It has also been associated to antioxidant activity (Yang et al 2010), suggesting that it could inhibit degenerative change such as skin cancer, sun damage and the effects of ageing. Not bad, ey?

Licorice root: a natural antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory agent, with demulcent properties (forms a film on skin and mucous membranes which soothes pain and inflammation), may help some skin conditions like eczema, acne and cold sores. Patches containing licorice root extract may provide some relief for skin problems around the mouth such as canker sores, according to New York University's Langone Medical Center, and has also been researvhed in regards to skin conditions such as psoriasis and eczema. The primary antioxidant and anti-inflammatory compounds found in Licorice Root are the glycosides - glycyrrhizin and glycyrrizinic acid, flavonoids, and saponins. Other studies have demonstrated the skin lightening effects of Licorice Root Extract, and it is suggested that Licorice Root Extract reduces hyperpigmentation by blocking tyrosinase, a skin enzyme responsible for the pigmentation process.

Willow Bark: Salicin ( a salicylic acid like compound), from white willow bark, has been researched as a potent anti-inflammatory agent when taken orally. Based on unpublished in-house comprehensive consumer clinical studies, it is believed salicin may have anti-aging capabilities when applied topically to human skin, and demonstrated statistically significant improvements in wrinkles, tactile roughness, pore size, radiance, and overall appearance at week 1 and statistically significant improvements in mottled pigmentation, global firmness, and jaw-line contour at week 4 time. (Gopaul R. et al) Willow Bark has been shown to contribute effects similar to those seen from synthetic salicylic acid with none of the drawbacks associated with its use, primarily irritation. As such, it is a safe way to get the benefits of a ß-hydroxy acid. This is wonderful news for sensitive yet oily or acne prone skin tones who might have had adverse effects from ß-hydroxy acids in the past. In vitro tests have shown Willow Bark Extract to have activity against S. aureus and P. acnes, the two strains of bacteria implicated in the formation of acne.

Birch Bark: Antibacterial, antiviral, and anti-inflammatory, birch bark has been used to treat skin outbreaks for centuries. Recent investigations suggest that the chemical betulin found in the bark may be useful in the treatment of melanoma (although not as the sole treatment for the condition). It is also associated to soothing chronic pruritus (itching), and so might be helpful in eczematous diseases, and also exert positive effects on skin-barrier function reinforcing barrier function and aids in treatment of dry skin (Casetti F. et al). Betulin, and anti-inflammatory agent of birch bark has been shown to succsefully work as a treatment for herpez zoster infection on skin with impressive healing results (Weckesser S. et al).

Burdock Root: Has been shown to have strong scavenger and antioxidant activity ( Predes FS. et al), and has been noted as a traditional treatment of acne,  although there is  a lack of research backing this claim.

Allantoin: I mentioned this compound briefly in my post about my kiehls experience. It is a potent anti-inflammtory which has been shown to increase wound healing. The results of the study suggest that the wound healing mechanism occurs via the regulation of inflammatory response and stimulus to fibroblastic proliferation and extracellular matrix synthesis (Araujo et al). It is also a moisturizing and keratolytic (exfoliant) agent, increasing the water content of the extracellular matrix and enhancing the shedding of the upper layers of dead skin cells, increasing the smoothness of the skin; promoting cell proliferation and wound healing; and a soothing, anti-irritant, and skin protectant, by forming complexes with irritant and sensitizing agents.

There are many things to like about this moisturizer, and I've mentioned a few above. One other is the presence of an SPF 15 (low, but still there). I love this as a skin enhancer for lazy summer days when my skin tends to be a little more oily. For winter I would have to put some form of moisturizer underneath. This is a great one for oilier or mixed skin types, which would need nothing more but this on bare skin to get a happy healthy glowing face.

£27 with free world wide delivery from strawberrynet - Dermalogica Clean Start Brighten Up SPF 15 60ml/2oz